The Twists & Turns of Stockholm's Gamla Stan
Stockholm’s Old Town is a picture-perfect collection of whimsical alleyways and lanes that entice visitors to get lost in their depths. Surrounded by the inky blue water of the Baltic Sea, Gamla Stan consists of Stads Island, Helgeands Island and Riddar Island - Stockholm’s beating heart.
The lanes are sprinkled with towering rainbow-hued buildings, their façade decorated with mismatched window-frames and elaborate black lanterns. Most appear to have an ornate geometric crown perched on their roof.
“FIKA”
Each step along the cobbled streets is dreamlike. You weave between boutique stores selling creative handicrafts and cafes tempting you to make time for traditional Swedish ‘Fika’ – sharing a cup of coffee or tea and a bite to eat with a friend.
Any number of precious souvenirs can be purchased here – delicate handmade jewellery, framed prints by local artists, and leathergoods made from reindeer.
“A Tiny Trinket to Treasure”
Perhaps the most ubiquitous souvenir amongst the stores are the dozens of unique hand painted Dala Horses.
Originating in the 1800s from the tiny villages of Vattnäs, Risa, Bergkarlås and Nusnäs, the horses were crafted with wood scraps from a local furniture-making factory and paint pigment from a nearby copper mine.
It was common for lumberjacks to carve the figurines during long winter nights in the log cabins of the forest, to be gifted to children living in villages nearby. Eventually, they became such a valuable commodity that they were used by travelling salesmen as payment for board and lodgings.
Ever since the Viking Times in Sweden, the horse has been considered a sacred animal, embodying strength and courage. Now, the vividly painted wooden ornament is a symbol of Swedish culture and is said to be one of the country’s few living folk traditions.
Treading the timeworn avenues of Gamla Stan, you are likely to stumble upon some important landmarks.
“The Royal Palace”
Sweden’s 18th Century Royal Palace is a domineering rectangular building guarded by stony-faced soldiers in traditional garb.
Kungliga Slottet, the official residence of His Majesty the King of Sweden, is one of the largest palaces in Europe with 600 rooms and five museums open to the public. A ceremonial Changing of the Guards occurs in the palace square each day.
“The Stockholm Cathedral”
Nearby, with its prominent green belltower and golden accents, the Stockholm Cathedral is a recognisable structure amongst Gamla Stan’s many buildings.
Its gleaming interior is a treat for those who choose to enter its doors, dotted with unique sculptures such as the 500-year-old ‘St George and the Dragon’ statue.
“The Riddarholm Church”
However, the piercing black spire of the Riddarholm Church vies for attention, casting the most iconic shadow on the Old Town’s skyline.
Of course, with architecture dating back as far as the 13th Century, there’s bound to be some sordid history concealed beneath the cobblestones of Gamla Stan.
“A Savage Scene in Stortorget”
The town’s picturesque Main Square, Stortorget, is a buzzing hive of visitors milling around market stalls and relishing meals in quaint restaurants.
But in 1520, the square descended into a state of madness as a group of Swedish noblemen were massacred by the Danish King Christian II in what is now known as the ‘Stockholm Bloodbath’.
The tainted reputation could not be shaken. From the mid 19th century to the early-mid 20th century, Gamla Stan was Stockholm’s slum, characterised by ramshackle buildings and poverty.
Thankfully, as people began to fall in love with the labyrinth of disorienting laneways and dazzling architecture, it’s potential as a tourist destination flourished. Now, Gamla Stan’s romantic charm is the gem of Stockholm.
