A Spine-Tingling Trek on New Zealand's Fox Glacier
Stretching for 13-kilometres in the Westland Tai Poutini National Park of New Zealand’s South Island, Fox Glacier (Te Moeka o Tuawe) is a sight to behold.
The twisting flow of electric blue ice meanders from the Southern Alps to the national park’s temperate rainforest. Along with nearby Franz Josef Glacier (Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere), it is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world.
Many visitors join a guided tour to trek on the ice, with some even arriving in style by helicopter. Strapping on a set of crampons, we set out to conquer the glacier on foot.
“An Ever-Changing Environment”
We began the walk surrounded by lush greenery. Gradually, our surroundings morphed into a rugged rock-strewn scene.
Icy chunks began appearing like litter and eventually, the magnificent swell of ice came into focus.
At over one kilometre high, we were dwarfed by the imposing vertical schist rock walls that appeared to magnify the glacier.
The valley was carved out by the glacier 18,000 years ago, back when the ice reached all the way to the Tasman Sea.
Fox Glacier is now located 12 kilometres further inland as the ice has contracted and swelled over thousands of years. Deep horizontal scars are engraved in the rock which reveal the points at which the glacier advanced and retreated.
Between 1985 and 2009, the glacier was growing notably, with an increase of about one metre every week.
It is currently shrinking, but unlike most other glaciers around the world, it still flows almost to sea level. It also flows around ten times faster than others due to the high snowfall from the alpine areas that feed the glacier.
Below the surface, shelving in the valley floor generates immense cracking which upheaves deep fractures in the ice. Electric blue peeks out from the rifts and crevices of the dramatic landscape.
“Fascination & Fear”
We explored the glacier with curious fascination, peeking into the cobalt pockets of ice and scuttling playfully down the man-made steps of the ice grotto. We stopped at a gully and drank pure glacial water from our hands.
Ascending towards the top of the glacier, we suddenly found ourselves on a smooth slice of land, blanketed with snow.
Admiring the sweeping views of the valley below, the group savoured the crisp air and enjoyed the tranquil serenity of the moment.
In a single second, the peace was shattered by a deafening crack, followed by an ominous splash which reverberated beneath our feet.
Naturally, all eyes darted towards our guide as we frantically searched for a sign that would indicate such a noise was a normal part of the tour.
Instead, she looked alarmed, and walked away from the group to whisper into her two-way radio.
She returned with a mechanical smile on her face and announced in a robotically calm voice: ‘take your last photos now and move up here. Quickly please… LET’S GO!’
By the time we reached safe ground, we couldn’t help but wonder if we’d just survived a near-death experience.
Luckily, we were sent on our way with a reassuring smile from this whimsical mossy rock and that’s how we knew we had successfully conquered New Zealand’s Fox Glacier and would return home safe and sound.
